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The superathletes who want to speed-run Mount Everest

AI-generated analysis

πŸ”οΈ Tyler Andrews and Karl Egloff are preparing to attempt record-breaking speed ascents and descents on Mount Everest this season.

❄️ The 45-year-old Egloff, an experienced mountain bike racer and meditator, contrasts with the 35-year-old former high school band geek Andrews who focuses on distance running.

πŸ§— Both climbers plan to ascend without supplemental oxygen but will use fixed ropes for safety while attempting to set new round-trip or ascent-only records.

🚦 They will tackle the dangerous Khumbu Icefall and navigate the congested South Side route, including the Cornice Traverse and Hillary Step.

πŸƒ Andrews originally intended to attempt a North Side record like Killian Jornet but must use the South Side due to China-Tibet Mountaineering Association permit restrictions.

🀝 Despite their public rivalry for records, both athletes emphasize mutual respect, with Andrews citing Egloff as a huge inspiration and Egloff noting they have different goals.

⏱️ Andrews aims specifically to beat Kenji Sherpa's 1998 ascent record of 20 hours and 24 minutes on the South Side without bottled oxygen.

β™ŸοΈ Egloff views climbing and descending as inseparable parts of the challenge, focusing on conserving energy and safety during the descent rather than just ascent speed.

πŸ‘₯ The Everest season will see approximately 900 people on the route due to a surplus of 450 permits issued by Nepal after the North Side was closed.

⚠️ A massive serac hanging over the Khumbu Icefall has delayed rope-laying operations and may collapse at any time, creating a hazardous bottleneck.

πŸš” The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee has urged climbers to move quickly through the Icefall section to minimize exposure to the unstable ice.

🎬 Filmmaker Thom Pollard notes that speed record-seekers will likely need to climb very early or wait until the end of the season to avoid the crowds.

🀝 Experts suspect the two athletes may coordinate with Expedition Operators Association of Nepal to manage their timing amidst the chaotic conditions.

Bullish Signals
  • The climbing season opens later this month, providing a fresh opportunity for super athletes Karl Egloff and Tyler Andrews to attempt record times on Mount Everest.
  • Andrews has set a goal to beat the no-bottled-oxygen ascent record of 20 hours, 24 minutes, which was set in 1998 by Kenji Sherpa.
  • The Nepali government has issued 450 climbing permits for this year, creating significant activity on the south side where record attempts will take place.
  • Andrews originally planned to climb the north side to pursue Killian Jornet's 26-hour round-trip record but now brings new talent to the popular south route.
  • Despite crowds, experts suggest moving quickly through dangerous sections like the Khumbu Icefall is the best strategy for safety and efficiency.
Risk Factors
  • The mountain may be dangerously more crowded than ever due to record permits issued by the Nepali government, with up to 900 people including Sherpa guides expected on the south side route.
  • The legendary Icefall Doctors team has been stalled for over two weeks because of a massive 90-foot high-pillar of ice (serac) hanging above the Khumbu Icefall.
  • Although the serac partially melted and crumbled, it remains precariously in place with multiple cracks that could cause an immediate collapse at any time.
  • The route opening is still uncertain, which may compress Everest's climbing season and worsen bottlenecks at congested spots like the Cornice Traverse and Hillary Step.
  • Thom Pollard notes that speed climbers will face immense pressure to either race ahead of the crowds or wait until the very end of the season, increasing exposure to risks.
  • The north side is effectively closed this year due to a lack of permits from the China-Tibet Mountaineering Association, forcing all climbers to gravitate toward the more crowded south side.
  • Climbers are being advised by the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee to 'move quickly through this section' to minimize exposure time to the collapsing serac risk.
Full Analysis
Tyler Andrews and Karl Egloff are preparing to attempt record-breaking ascents and descents of Mount Everest's south side during the 2026 climbing season, which opens later in May. The two athletes, representing distinct backgrounds, aim to set new marks without supplemental oxygen; Andrews, a 35-year-old former distance runner who now runs marathons in 2:15, grew up in Boston and has recently embraced big mountain running after the pandemic shut down road racing. Egloff, a 45-year-old Ecuadorian-Swiss resident with a history of mountain biking and his father as a guide, views mountaineering as an inextricable climb-and-descent challenge. Neither climber is among the roughly 7,500 people who have summited Everest since Sir Edmund Hillary's first ascent in 1953, noting his birth year was listed incorrectly in the source text but clarifying he has not climbed before. They will tackle the route from Nepal's base camp at 17,598 feet, traversing the dangerous Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, and the Lhotse Face to reach congestion zones like the Cornice Traverse and the Hillary Step, which sits 200 vertical feet below the summit. Andrews plans to focus on improving the ascent record held by Kenji Sherpa at 20 hours and 24 minutes since 1998, while Egloff intends to set a round-trip record, arguing that descending safely is integral to the performance. Although both claim they are not competing against one another, with Andrews acknowledging Egloff as an inspiration and Egloff noting their familiarity from the previous year's base camp, their goals remain distinct yet overlapping in this high-stakes environment. The 2026 season presents unique challenges due to geopolitical shifts and environmental hazards; the China-Tibet Mountaineering Association has not issued permits for the north side, meaning all traffic, including Andrews who initially planned a north-side run inspired by Killian Jornet's 2017 record of 26 hours, must use the crowded south route. The Nepali government issued 450 climbing permits for the year, potentially bringing up to 900 people onto the trail when Sherpa guides are included, creating dense bottlenecks. Compounding these issues, the legendary Icefall Doctors team was stalled for over two weeks by a 90-foot high-pillar of ice or serac above the Khumbu Icefall, only opening a path recently after partial melting, though the structure remains precarious with multiple cracks and potential for collapse. Authorities from the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee have warned climbers to move quickly through this section to minimize exposure, suggesting that speed may be the most effective safety strategy in an increasingly crowded and hazardous landscape.